Manaslu Tsum Valley trek – 19 Days

We continue to follow the low valley to the north, observing the majestic Himalayan peaks from time to time as we hike up the picturesque densely forested Buddhi Gandaki Valley. The route passes through several small villages until the valley widens. From the opposite side of the valley, you will see a large stream flowing into the Budhi Gandaki River. As we continue our journey, we reach the beautiful village of Lapubesi (880m). From Lapubesi, we descend to a meandering path to reach Macha Khola.  

We cross the Tharo Khola river and head upstream to Khola Beni. The route takes your forward alongside dramatic gorges with waterfall sculptured rocks and some landslides. After crossing a bridge, we reach a tiny village of Kholabesi and then natural hot springs at Tatopani (Tatopani means hot water in Nepali). From the hot springs, we catch another trial and cross the Budhi Gandaki River on a suspension bridge. We will then walk past a landslide and reach Dobhan village. From Doban, we cross a suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola and climb stone stairs to Thado Bharyang before ascending to the charming village of Jagat. Jagat is the entry point of Manaslu Conservation Area, and we will register our permits at a police checkpoint in Jagat.

We make an entry into the restricted region of Manaslu by climbing over a ridge to Salleri. We walk along the riverbanks then cross the Budhi Gandaki River on a long suspension bridge. As we continue to walk, the valley widens towards Philim. As we pass Ekle Bhatti, the trail separates one takes you to Tsum and the other Manaslu. We hike up towards Lokpa across several villages. Rivers become narrower, and we can see the confluence of Syar Rivers from Tsum valley. We trek on the right side of Tsum valley to reach Lokpa village, the first village in Tsum valley that provides clear views of the Manaslu range. In fact, it’s a completely hidden valley blessed by Padmashamva centuries ago. (Padmashamva is one of the founding fathers of Tibetan Buddhism.) You will get stunning views of Himalchuli, and Boudha Himal from Lokpa village.

After breakfast, we start walking from Lokpa Village- a wild route entrance to Tsum valley. On a clear day, you can get stunning views of Baudha Himal (6672m) and Ganesh Himal VI from the routes joining Lokpa to Chumling. Our trail first descends to Lungwa river valley, then climbs up through a subtropical forest of dense rhododendron and pine. There are no villages between Lokpa to Chumling. We will be crossing Syar Khola to arrive at the village of Chumling. A side trip to the upper parts of Chumling takes you to a monastery from where you can catch great views of Ganesh Himal. Chumling has a health post and three monasteries - Panago Gumba, Mani Dhungyur, and Gurwa Gumba. 

Today, we enter the upper valley, a part of the inner Himalayas. The trail continues along the Syar River down to Domje - the largest city in Tsum valley. From Domje, we continue climbing uphill to arrive at Chhokangparo. On a clear day, we can get magnificent views of Himalchuli and Ganesh Himal from Chhokangparo. At Chhokangparo, you will also have the opportunity to experience the hospitality of local (Tibetan group “Tsombo”) people along with Tibetan Chiya (butter tea) and local meals.

We walk a relatively shorter distance today. The Nile, on the western side of the Shikhar Khola, is about a 20-minute walk across from Chhule, which is the last village in the north upper Tsum Valley. When you reach Ngakyu Leru, you will notice people farming as the land is fertile. After passing Lamagaon, you will reach St. Milarepa Piren Phu Cave, where his footprint is said to be preserved in rock. Piren Phu (pigeon cave) is one of the most sacred caves in the Tsum valley. There are two separate Gumbas attached to the rocky cave. Richly painted Buddhist murals, excellent artistic scripts carved on stones, long prayer flags, and significant Buddhist paper scripts make Piren Phu Cave one of the most important socio-cultural assets in the valley. Then, we cross a suspension bridge over the Shiar River and continue our trek through several villages to arrive at Nile.

A short walk from the Nile along the west bank of the valley close to the Tibetan border leads to Mu Gompa - the highest point of the Tsum Valley Trek. We hike up through yak pastures through typical dry and arid trans Himalayan terrain. The Mu Gompa monastery has rows of Chortens and provides beautiful mountain views. Moreover, you get an opportunity to visit Dhephu Doma Gompa - one of the oldest monasteries in the Tsum.

From Gompa, the descent begins. We descend to Rachen Gompa, then Chhule and reach Phurbe. Rachen Gompa lies in the border area of Nepal and Tibet, and it sits surrounded by humongous mountains. But the destination for this day takes you through a forested area and finally at Chhokangparo.

Our descent from Chhokung Paro continues as we reach Gho. You will be crossing a suspension bridge near Gho and hiking forward to reach Rainjam Village. We leave Rainjam village, descend to Tsum Valley and finally reach Chumling - our destination for the day.

Today, you will leave Chumling and continue descending, so today's journey should be an easier one. You will be moving along the bank of Shair Khola to reach Lokpa Village. On a nice day, you may pass through large flocks of sheep and goats along the path. The trail after Lokpa descends as we cross the Budi Gandaki on a solid bridge then enters a narrow gorge from where it starts to ascend and descend while gradually climbing through the valley. We cross a river on a suspension to Nupri and then pass through bamboo forests to reach the Gurung village of Deng (1860m). 

From Deng, we climb to Rana (1,910m) Village and hike forward to Bhiphedi (2,130m). The path starts meandering in and out of the valley canyons crossing the Serang Khola before leading us to Ghap (2160m). As we leave Ghap, the valley becomes steeper as we continue a long climb through bamboo and rhododendron forests. After crossing the wild rivers a couple of times, you will reach the Namrung Village - the entry point to the Nupri region. The locals of Namrung Village are Tibetan descendants.

We leave Namrung and pass through many Mani wall entrance gates, several Buddhist Gompas, and a few villages. Then the valley opens out, and our route passes through Sho Village. This village has many yaks and is known for excellent views of Manaslu (8163m) and Manaslu North (7,157m). It is a great day to savor the great mountain views. To trek to Sama Gaon (3530m), we follow the right riverbank enjoying the views of Peak 29. A couple of hours of climbing through the forest brings us to Shyala village, from where we can see Phungi, Manaslu, and Himal Chuli mountains. The Shyala villagers rely on yaks, potatoes, and barley to survive this distinctly Alpine region. As we hike up, you will see Ganesh Himal towards the east and the Himalchuli and Manaslu in the south. Soon enough, as you look down, you will be able to see two rows of houses that form the central part of Sama Gaon. At the far end of Sama Gaon stands the well-known Sama Gaon Monastery. The Tibetan border is very near from here. We stop at Samagaon for a day to acclimatize.

To ensure proper acclimatization, we spend a day at Sama Gaon for rest. Sama Gaon lies close to Manaslu Base Camp, and in this village, you can see thousands of mani stones with Buddhist texts and sculptures. The women here wear a nice silver spoon as jewelry. Today is a rest day, but you can take optional excursions to explore the surrounding glacial moraine or visit Birendra Lake or Pungyen Gompa. The return side trip to Manaslu Base Camp takes eight hours but is well worth the effort as it provides fantastic views of the Manaslu Glacier and the turquoise Birendra Lake. If you just want to explore Sama Gaon and relax, you can visit the Pung-Gyen monastery, which sits beneath the east face of Manaslu. Higher up the village lies cave Gompa and hot springs.

We start early in the morning from Sama Gaon and head to Samdo. Our hike takes us through the terraced fields alongside old mani walls, across the Budhi Gandaki wooden bridge, and gradually up to the Samdo valley. Another mani wall marks the beginning of the ascent to the Larkya La Pass. We cross two streams and witness the Larkya Glacier. Then, we go around the Salka Khola Valley, climb up once again and come to a stone guest house (4,450 m), which is not a lodge but a kind of resting place called Dharmasala, also known as Larkya La Phedi. Today you will enjoy fantastic views of Larkya Glacier and the impressive Manaslu mountain. We rest at Larkya La Phedi and prepare to cross Larkya La Pass the next day.

We leave Dharmasala very early in the morning because we will be hiking along the longest and the toughest section of this trek. We need to cross the Larkya La Pass (5,160m) before the wind starts blowing strongly at the pass. The trail starts as a gentle climb across the moraine. It descends slightly to a lake and then becomes rough and indistinct as it crosses steep grassy slopes. We continue on the moraine to a ridge marked by two cairns. From here, the prayer flags marking the pass are visible. We descend to the four frozen lakes then make the final steep climb to the pass. The pass opens outstanding panoramic views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kanguru, Minjung, and the huge Annapurna II. We savor the spectacular views from the top of the pass. Then the descent begins. The trail follows the top of the moraine to the west and makes a set of steep, rough switchbacks as it crosses the moraine, then descends more gently on loose gravel to another grassy moraine at 4,450m. The trail now becomes easier to follow and reaches a small meadow. The valley becomes broader as the trails head down to a large meadow, past a mani wall and a small rest house that marks Bhimtang at 3,590m.

From Bhimtang, the trail crosses the moraine, descends to the Dudh Khola headwaters, crosses a wooden bridge, then into pine and rhododendron forest to Hompuk (3,430m). The rhododendrons are multi-colored, and the forest is home to sheep, horses, and monkeys. You will also be able to enjoy the panoramic views of Phungi, Manaslu, Manaslu North Peak, Cheo Himal, and Himlung Himal. A 30-minute descent through the forest takes you to Sangore Kharka meadow. You will then cross a landslide before making a steep climb to a ridge decorated with prayer flags. The route ultimately descends to the river bank at Gho (2,575m).

The route is full of ups and downs, mostly through fields but occasionally through dense forests. Less than an hour walk through the fields and intermittent rhododendron and oak woods takes you to Tilije - a multiethnic community. You will exit Tilije through a stone arch, cross the Dudh Khola and follow along its embankment that descends through the scrub forest. As you trek ahead, the walls of the Marsyangdi Valley start to look larger, and finally, the houses of Dharapani appear in the distance. You will then pass Thonje village via a wooden bridge and a chorten-shaped arch, and Dharapani lies across a long suspension bridge over the Marsyangdi. But your trail continues on the sandy banks of the Marsyangdi River until you reach Tal. The prayer flags, mani walls, and chortens in and around Tal tell you that Tal is a Buddhist village.

In the morning, we take a local Jeep or bus from Tal to Besisahar. It is an approximately 4 to 5 hrs drive that passes through several villages, the towns of Bhulbhule and Khudi to Beshishar. We need to reach Besisahar before 3 p.m to catch the last jeep or local bus to Kathmandu. On our journey back to Kathmandu, the road follows the scenic Marsyangdi River, then meets the Trishuli River as we head east along the Prithvi Highway. Along the way, you will get good views of the lush scenery, terraced farmland, and perhaps some final glimpses of the tall snow peaks.